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basement wall insulation is designed to eliminate hassle and provide a
way to insulate basements without actually framing and finishing the
walls.
Some contractors
go through the hassle of hanging unfaced insulation blanket followed
by another step of placing a visqueen vapor barrier up against the
insulation, which then has to be nailed to the wall. The extra step
of applying a vapor barrier on site is not just an extra step, but
doubles the amount of sizing and cuts that have to be made.
For an
unfinished basement, where no framing is required, an efficient
solution is our basement wall blanket insulation that is laminated
with a white flame-resistant polypropylene facing. The vapor barrier
is already glued to the fiberglass blanket!
Concrete, stone, concrete block, and other masonry foundation
materials have very little insulating value - a foundation wall can
account for approximately 20% of heat loss. Adding insulation will
keep a basement warmer, make the floors above the foundation warmer
and more comfortable, plus it will lower heating bills.
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Installation:
Powder-actuated guns are the fastest way to anchor
fiberglass blanket to concrete. Most contractors will use a nail
with at least a 2” washer to help secure the insulation to the
wall. Nails are positioned in a checker-board fashion with
spacing sufficient to hold the weight of the insulation to the
wall.
Some contractors prefer to install Furring Strips which
the insulation can then be stapled to.
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Install 2x2 furring strips on the mudsill at the
top of the wall. Strike a chalk line on the wall either 48 or 72
inches (according to the insulation roll width) below the top of
the furring strip and install a second furring strip below the
line. Install a third furring strip spaced 1/2 inch above the
floor. Install furring strips around window openings and
obstructions such as electrical panels, and (optional)
vertically at inside wall corners.
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Insulate Walls
Unroll insulation with the facing toward you and staple it every
4 inches to the top and middle furring strips. You'll need a
helper and a couple of small ladders for this operation.
Similarly install the bottom course, which may require cutting
to fit between the middle and bottom furring strips. When
cutting, don't forget to leave an extra 1-1/2 inches of facing
that you can staple to the lower furring strip.
Photo courtesy of CertainTeed Corporation
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Tape Seams
Tape all seams and joints (and any tears) with a white vinyl
tape.
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